![]() ![]() Alternatively, has anyone seen any plans to fabricate one up accurately enough not to damage anything else?Īs an aside, I've heard that copper grease on refit actually catalyses the alu-steel galvanic corrosion? Thanks for any advice gratefully received. Does anyone know where I can hire, beg or borrow one of these to get the heads off? I'm based in South Cheshire but can travel to pick one up and drop it off if necessary. Different advice received include to chisel the head off, weld on nuts to each stud (and accept they'll shear), suspend the engine/ head from a hoist overnight, and to use the all-American "rope trick." I understand however, that there's a special tool which can be used, which clamps into the inlet ports and into the exhaust ports with manifold removed and then uses "unbreakable" bolts to line up with and push against the cylinder head studs. And so it was with the toughest job so far on Project: TR7, removing the cylinder head. I've broken a stud extractor on one, shredded the threads by trying to double-nut another. Followed the instructions in the books to remove cylinder head, but though all bolts came out OK, the studs are stuck firm. After a short period of running, got a horrid-sounding knocking from the LH cylinder bank. ![]() Had my 76 Auto Carmine Red for a couple of years and recently changed the water pump to cure a persistent leakage problem. Hi all, new to the forum and seeking advice - conflicting messages given to date. ![]()
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